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Fire and Water - The Concept | Fire and Water 2 - Building it

Problem #1: How Much Does Heat Cost?

 

Problem # 8 How Much Wood Do I Need?

 

Estimating the Amount of Wood You Need to Burn

 

By Robert Saunders


 

 

The purpose of this exercise is to learn how to calculate the amount of wood we need, given some information about the weather, the wood burning stove and the wood that’s available.  Predicting how much wood we’ll need in any given situation, such as how much wood to stack for the winter, is always a risky endeavor.  Any calculations we make are based on best guesses.  It is prudent to always err on the conservative side.  It’s better, and a lot less costly, to have an extra cord of wood in the spring than to run out of wood in the middle of a harsh winter, unless of course, you like to cut and split wood in the winter.

 

To be consistent with previous exercises, we’ll concentrate on getting heat from burning wood.  If you have not read and understood the exercise found in Problem #1, How Much Does Heat Cost, now would be a good time to do it.  If you understood the lessons learned in Problem #1, you might enjoy this exercise.

 

First, let’s imagine we just arrived for a week’s ski vacation at a beautiful remote log cabin deep in the north woods.  The stars are out and there is a spectacular aurora borealis. It’s winter and the temperature is minus 20 degrees F, it’s calm and the snow is three feet deep.  First, we need some heat. There is a pot-bellied stove in the cabin but there isn’t any wood in the woodshed.  There are three 1500-watt electric heaters and a 5KW generator in the woodshed, but not much fuel.   There are gas lights in the cabin, but no gas stove.  We start the generator, plug in the heaters and turn them on High.  After a couple of hours the temperature is a nice warm 70 degrees F.  We turn off one of the heaters and the temperature remains at 70 degrees. There are a saw, an ax, a maul splitter, a sawhorse and a chopping block in the woodshed, but no wood. Tomorrow we’ll chop or cut some wood.  Take your pick.

 

The fist thing we observe is that it requires 3,000 Watts or 3 Kilowatts, or 3 Kilowatt Hours (KWHs) per hour to heat the cabin.    We can convert this to BTUs by using the conversion factor:

 

1KWH = 3412 BTUs

 

Heat loss.  The fact that two heaters are keeping a constant temperature inside the cabin indicates that the heat loss from the cabin, under the conditions given, is a constant 3 KWs.    The amount of energy required to heat the cabin for one hour is:

 

Energy = 3 KW * 1.0 Hour* 3412 (BTUs / KWH) = 10,236 BTUs

 

If the wind starts to blow or the outside temperature drops, then more heat loss can be expected.    Heat transfer through a material, such as the walls, is a function of the difference between the inside and outside  temperatures.  It is also a function of the heat transfer characteristics of material such as its insulating properties, the more insulation, the slower the heat transfer.  Log cabins that are well sealed have good insulating properties.  The log walls have a large thermal mass. What that means is they retain a lot of heat once they get warm.  That’s why log cabins seem to have a more cozy, even heat.  If the walls were made of aluminum without any insulation, the two heaters would not heat the cabin very well.   The total amount of heat loss is also a function of how large the cabin is, and how much area is exposed to the outside elements.  The reader can probably think of some other factors that effect the amount of heat loss in a cabin or house.  How about the windows and doors?

 

Note.  By determining the amount of energy needed to keep a constant temperature, i.e., two 1500-watt heaters, we have, in effect, measured the heat loss for the existing, or ambient, conditions. 

 

How much wood to cut? It’s now morning and we’re ready to cut some wood, but how much will we need for the next week?  There are 168 hours in a week, and we will need to cut and chop at least enough wood to provide heat for a week.

 

Total Week’s Heat = 168 Hours* 10,236 BTUs / Hour = 1,719,648 BTUs

 

There is a covered supply of tree-length seasoned White Oak available in the yard.  All we have to do is cut, and stack it.  Fortunately, all the wood is exactly 6” in diameter, so we won’t need to split it.  Well, we might split and shave some of it to start the fire.  We know from Problem #1 that dry White Oak has a heat content of 30,600,000 BTUs per cord. We need to start by cutting the following amount of wood.

 

Wood Needed for Heat = 1,719,648 BTUs / (30,600,000 BTU/Cord) = 0.056 Cords

 

That doesn’t sound like much, but wait a minute.  We said there is an old pot-bellied stove.  That means that some of the heat is going to go up the stack.  So we need to add some wood for that.  If we guess that this old stove is only 50% efficient we need to increase our wood supply.

 

Efficiency of the Stove.  The efficiency of the stove is calculated by comparing the useful energy gotten out of the stove, E2, compared to the total amount of energy put into the stove, E1.  Energy that heats the room is useful energy.  Heat that goes up the stack is wasted energy.

 

Useful Energy = Total Energy – Wasted Energy

 

Efficiency is the amount of useful energy compared to the total amount of energy supplied to the stove.  It is the useful energy divided by the total energy.

 

Efficiency = E2 / E1

 

Since we know that we need the output of the stove, E2, to be 1,719,648 BTUs for the week, and if we know the efficiency of the stove, we can calculate the total amount of heat, E1, that has to be generated by burning wood.

E1 = E2 / 0.50 = 1,719,648 / 0.50 = 3,439,296 BTU

 

Heat loss.  The heat lost due to the inefficiency of the stove is E1 – E2.  This is the difference between the heat generated and the useful heat, or the wasted heat.

 

Lost Heat = E1 – E2 = 3,439,296 – 1,719,648 = 1,719,648 BTU

 

What this means is that half the heat being generated is wasted energy.  How much is that in terms of how much wood is wasted?

 

Wood for Lost Heat = 1,719,648 BTUs / (30,600,000 BTU/Cord) = 0.056 Cords

 

Moisture Content.  Now let’s add some additional wood to allow for moisture in the wood, which has not been split and has been sitting outside in the weather since last summer.  A good guess for White Oak might be that the wood has a 25% moisture content by weight

 

Wood to Replace Moisture = (0.056 + 0.056) Cords * 0.25 = 0.028 Cords

 


 

Weight of Wood.   Values for weights of various woods can be found in a table in the following web site:

 

www.ianr.unl.edu/pubs/forestry/g881.htm

 

Table 1

Wood Species

Weight

lbs/cord

Heat Content

BTUs/cord

BTUs/lb

Green

Dry

Average

Air Dried

Average

A

B

C

D

E

F

White Oak

5573

4200

4887

30,600,000

6262

White Pine

2780

2250

2515

17,100,000

6799

 

From Table 1, White Oak weighs 4887 lb per cord; therefore, the amount of wood we need by weight is listed in Table 2.  The equivalent heat in BTUs and the total amount of water are summarized in Tables 1A and 2.

 

 

Table 1A

Partial Sum of Wood Needed for the Week

Heat Distribution

Amount

Cords

Lbs

BTUs

Useful Heat

0.056

274

1,719,648

Stove and Stack Losses

0.056

274

1,719,648

Replacing Moisture Content*

0.028

137

856,800

Sum

0.14

685

4,296,096

 

 

 

Table 2

White Oak Values

Total

Calculation

Result**

Wood Needed

4887 (lb / cord) * 0.14 (cords)

684 lb

BTUs Needed

30,600,000 (BTUs / cord) *  0.14 (cord)

4,284,000 BTUs

Amount of water

684 lb * 0.25

171 lb

 

Notes:

 

·         An argument can be made that the moisture content of the wood has already been accounted for.  However, the purpose of this exercise is to learn methods for calculating the various conditions related to estimating the amount of wood needed to generate a certain amount of heat, and not necessarily for accuracy.

 

**   Differences in results are due to round-off error.   

 

Additional losses. This isn’t exactly right because we haven’t accounted for the heat needed to boil off the moisture content of the wood, which is called the Latent Heat of Vaporization or just heat of vaporization, or HOV.  We also need to account for the energy needed to heat the water in the wood to the boiling point of water, and if the moisture is frozen, we need to account for the heat needed to thaw the ice, which is called the Heat of Fusion or HOF.  Three more things we need to account for include preheating the ice if the temperature of the ice is below freezing, preheating the wood to the point of combustion, and preheating the air before it can support combustion.  These are related to the property of substances called heat capacity.

 

The following is a list of heat losses we need to take into account:

 

1.        Boiling off the moisture content

2.        Preheat the moisture to the boiling point

3.        Melt the ice

4.        Preheat the ice

5.        Preheat the wood

6.        Preheat the air

 

Moisture Content (MC).  We need to do some estimating here. From the following reference, living wood has a moisture content of between 40% and 45% by weight.   If we assume we have partially dried wood with a 25% moisture content, a good estimate might be an average weight for Green wood and Dry wood, as shown in Table 1.  Heat content per cord is shown in column E and was previously obtained in Problem #1.   In column F, the heat content per lb. is calculated by dividing the contents of column E by the contents of column D.   Note that column F was added to illustrate the often quoted idea that most species of wood have similar heat content by weight.

 

A detailed discussion of water in wood can be found in the following web site:

 

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Water_and_Wood.html

 

 

 

Heat of Vaporization (HOV) of Water.  According to a table found in the following web site,

 

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/tables/phase.html#c2

 

The heat of vaporization for water at the boiling point is:

 

2256 * 1,000 Joules/ Kg or 2256 KJ/Kg

 

Does that look confusing?   A Joule is simply another unit of energy.  It is equal to one Watt for one Second, or 1.0 Watt-Seconds. 

1 Joule = 1 Watt-Second

1 Kg = 2.205 lb

 

You should recognize that 1,000 Joules (KJ) is the same as 1.0 Kilowatt (KW) for one Second.  How many KWHs is that?  Since there are 3600 seconds in one hour, the number of KWHs per Kg is:

 

2,256,000 Joules/Kg = 2,256 (KW-Seconds / Kg) / 3600 (Seconds/Hour)  = 0.627 KWHs / Kg

or

0.627 (KWHs/Kg) * 3412 (BTUs per KWH) = 2139 (BTUs per Kg)

 

To determine the energy required to vaporize a pound of water (already at the boiling point), we divide the BTUs/Kg by 2.205 lbs/Kg.

 

2139 (BTUs / Kg) / 2.205 (lb / Kg)  = 970 (BTUs / lb)

 

 

Vaporizing the moisture.  Now we can calculate the losses due to vaporizing water in the wood we need.

 

Loss due to HOV = 171 ( lb ) * 970 (BTUs / lb) = 165,870 BTUs

 

Percentage loss = 165,870 / 4,284,000 = 0.04

 

We know that we need 684 lbs from Table 2.  Therefore we need to add 4% of 684 lbs  to the total.

 

Weight of wood needed to vaporize MC = 0.04 (percent) * 684 (lb) = 27 lb.

 

Wood needed to vaporize MC= 27 (lb) / 4887 (lbs / cord) = 0.006 cord

 

Since that is about the weight of 2 logs, we could safely ignore these losses.   However we will add 27 lbs to the total wood needed as shown in Table 3 below

 

Preheating the Moisture.  Since we already know the weight of water in our wood supply from Table 2, we can calculate the amount of heat required to bring it to the boiling point of water.

 

Weight of Water = 171 lb

 

However, we do need to know the initial temperature of the water in the wood.  If the temperature of the wood we brought in from the woodshed is 32 deg F, we need to raise the temperature to 212 deg F. The temperature change is 180 deg F.  Since we know that one BTU is defined as the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of 1 lb. of water by 1 degree F, then we can find the heat in BTUs needed to heat the moisture to the boiling point as follows:

 

BTUs to Preheat the Moisture =  (T2-T1) * Weight of Water

 

= 1.0 (BTU / lb - Deg F) * 180 (deg F) * 171 (lb) = 30,780 BTUs

 

Wood needed to preheat moisture = 30,780 (BTUs) / 30,600,000 (BTUs / cord) = 0.001 cord

 

Weight of the Wood = .001 (cord) * 4887 (lb / cord) = 5 lb

 

We could safely ignore the wasted heat required to preheat the moisture content to the boiling point, however we will add 5 lbs to Table 3 below.

 

If the moisture is ice.  If the temperature of the wood is freezing when we put it in the stove, what additional heat is required to change the ice to water?  The heat required to melt ice at the melting point  is called  the Latent Heat of Fusion or heat of fusion, HOF.

 

Heat of Fusion (HOF) of Water.  According to a table found in the following web site,

 

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/tables/phase.html#c2

 

The heat of fusion for water at the melting point is: 334 KJ/Kg

 

1 Joule = 1 Watt-Second

1 Kg = 2.205 lb

 

You should recognize that 1,000 Joules (KJ) is the same as 1.0 Kilowatt (KW) for one Second.  How many KWHs is that?  Since there are 3600 seconds in one hour, the number of KWHs per Kg is:

 

334,000 Joules/Kg = 334 (KW-Seconds / Kg) / 3600 (Seconds/Hour)  = 0.093 KWHs / Kg

0.093 (KWHs/Kg) * 3412 (BTUs per KWH) = 317 (BTUs per Kg)

 

To determine the energy required to melt a pound of ice (already at the 32 deg F), we divide the  BTUs/Kg by 2.205 lbs/Kg.

317 (BTUs / Kg) / 2.205 (lb/Kg)  = 144 (BTUs / lb)

 

 

To account for the heat lost in melting the ice, we need to multiply the heat of fusion by the weight of the ice.

Loss due to HOF = 144 (BTUs / lb) * 171 (lb)  =  24,624 BTUs

 

To find the amount of the wood needed, we divide this loss by the heat content of a lb of wood.

 

Weight of wood needed to melt ice = 24,624 (BTUs) / 6262 (BTUs / lb) = 3.9 lb

or

Wood needed to melt the ice = 3.9 (lb) / 4887 (lb / cord) = 0.0008 cord

 

Effects of Moisture Content on Burning Wood.  While we can ignore some of the effects of moisture, we cannot ignore the effects of the total amount of water contained in the wood.  If 25% of a cord of wood is water, then 25% of the cord, by weight, cannot burn.  Anyone with wood burning experience knows that when green or wet wood is added to a fire, the fire in the stove tends to die down or actually go out.  When wet wood is added to a fire, the smoke from the fire also increases. At this point, opening the damper and the vent helps to keep the fire going. 

 

Note.  The question here is that if it isn’t the heat of vaporization itself that causes a problem, what is it?  The fact is that 25% of the weight of the wood, in the form of moisture, has to be removed before the wood can burn, and that takes time. While the wood is burning on its surface, the inside of the wood may remain frozen until the heat from the surface penetrates to the core. That is one reason we split wood, so that more surface area is burning at any time.  The process of combustion involves converting solid substances to gases prior to actually burning.   A detailed explanation of the mechanics of burning wood is beyond the scope of this article, but might be a subject for further discussion.

 

Some more constants.   We need to use the following values found below from the Handbook of Chemistry and Physics, published by the Chemical Rubber Publishing Company.

 

Table 2A

Useful Approximate Values

“Approximate values of heat of combustion in kilogram calories per gram of substance.  Products of combustion are gaseous unless otherwise stated.”  (values taken from various tables in this reference)

Substance

Kg-cal per gram of substance

Woods:

Oak, 13% H2O

3.990

Pine, 12% H2O

4.420

Heat Capacity (specific heat).  “That quantity of heat required to increase the temperature of a system or substance one degree of temperature.”

Substance

calories per gram

Ice

0.480 @ -20 deg C

Air

0.25 @ 50 deg C

Density of Air

Substance

Grams/liter

Air

1.183

 

 

1 BTU = 252 calories

1 Cu. Ft. = 28.32 Liters

1 lb. = 453.6 grams

100 deg. C = 150 deg. F

 

 

 

Preheating the ice. If the temperature of the wood is –20 deg F when we put it in the stove, what additional heat is required to heat the ice?   We have to heat the ice from –20 deg F to 32 deg F, which is a temperature difference of 52 degrees F.  We can account for the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of the ice from the ambient temperature to the melting point.  If the wood is stored outside at –20 degree F, the temperature increase of the ice must be 52 degrees F.  

 

H =[[ 0.480 (cal / deg C) * 171 lb * 453.6 gr / lb] / 252 (cal / BTU) ] * [52 deg F * 5/9( deg C / deg F)]

 

   = [147.744] * [29] = 4,268 BTUs

 

This estimate suggests that the heat needed to preheat the ice can be safely ignored.

 

Loss due to preheat ice = 4,268 BTUs

 

Weight of wood needed to preheat ice = 4268 (BTUs) / 6262 (BTUs / lb) = 0.68 lb

 

Wood needed to melt ice = .68 (lb) / 4887 (lb / cord) = 0.0001 cord

 

 

Preheating the air.  One more thing we can consider is the loss due to heating the air from room temperature to the combustion temperature of the wood.  We can discuss some of the conditions of this problem to show that a complete solution is beyond the scope of this exercise. 

 

Let’s assume the firebox is 10 cubic feet (that is a large firebox) and the average temperature in the firebox is 570 deg F.  Let’s assume that the vent is supplying 10 cubic feet of air at 70 deg F per minute to the fire.  We can use the values given above for specific heat of air equal to .25 cal/gram and the density of air equal to 1.183 grams/liter.

 

1 Cu. Ft. = 28.32 Liters

 

1 lb. = 453.6 grams

 

1 BTU = 252 calories

 

Air = 10 ft3 / min * [[1.183 gm/lt  * 28.32 lt/ ft3] / 453.6 gm/lb] * 60 min/hr = 44.32 lb / hr

 

Heat = [[0.25 cal/gm * 453.6 gm/lb] / 252 cal/BTU] * 44.32 lb/hr = 20 BTU/hr

 

 

Weight of wood needed to preheat air = 20(BTUs/hr) / 6262 (BTUs / lb) = 0.003 lb/hr

 

Wood needed to preheat air = 0.003 (lb/hr) / 4887 (lb / cord) = 0.0000007 cords/hr

 

This is insignificant even if the estimates are in error by several orders of magnitude.  The question of preheating air can be ignored. 

 

Note.  The mechanism of heating air is much more complicated than the approach we used here.  Air expands as it is heated.  In a closed container, the pressure of the air increases with temperature.  At atmospheric pressure, the volume of air increases as it is heated.  The heating of air is further complicated when air contains moisture.  When the temperature of the moisture contained in air is heated above the boiling point, steam is formed and the volume of steam is many times that of heated air.  Added to this mechanism is the fact that wood components become gaseous when the wood is burned.  The burning of the gases is what produces heat.  Along with heat is a volume of unburned gases and particles that combine to form smoke and steam which is what you see coming from the stack or chimney.

 

 

Minimum Wood Needed.  Table 3 is a summary of the wood needed for useful heat and the inherent losses in the wood and the stove.  It does not account for poor installation problems, poor maintenance or poor operation of the heating apparatus.

 

 Table 3

Total Wood Needed for the Week

Heat Distribution

Amount

Cords

Lbs

BTUs

Useful Heat

0.056

274

1,719,648

Stove and Stack Losses

0.056

274

1,719,648

Replacing Moisture Content

0.028

130

856,800

Heat of Vaporization HOV

0.006

27

165,870

Pre-heating Moisture

0.001

5

30,780

Melting Frozen Moisture HOF

0.0008

3.9

24,624

Pre-heating Ice

0.0001

0.68

4,268

Total

0.1479

714.58

4,521,638

 

Overall Efficiency = 1,719,648 BTUs / 4,521,638 BTUs = 0.38

 

Notice the considerable difference between the stated efficiency of the stove and the actual efficiency,  The overall efficiency for the conditions given is now down to 38%, compared to the stated efficiency of the stove of 50%.  Further losses can be expected, especially during the time