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How I made a waste oil burner on budget.

The principle of burning oil (vegetable WVO, used motor oil or any other) is that any kind of oil should be preheated (or vaporized) first don't know exact temperature (never measured) but it's about 300 C 400 C or more.

1st method. First I tried a device made from metal hose   (it was made of Copper diameter of 8 mm). I spun it into spiral (about 30 cm length). One end was connected to the hose leading to fuel canister another end had an injector used in acetylene torch (also works if you just hammer the end of metal hose). The injector is turned the way it could spray the flame into the tunnel of a spiral. For ignition I fired wood for about 10 - 15 min. then the oil in spiral started to boil and vapor sprayed from the injector (for first minutes hot oil comes from injector it also burns but later it turns to vapor by that time you get a boost of fire like from a small jet engine). From that point it works autonomously no more wood fire needed. It stops just after fuel canister is empty. So I got waste oil burner just for 3 USD. I paid for copper hose (of course I had a wood stove for this installation already).


                Air intake




                                                                    Sprayer (torch injector)





 Copper hose spun into spiral


Step by step instruction



1.      About 2 to 3 meters of thin copper hose (6 or 8 mm diameter) sold in plumbing stores

2.      Canister for fuel (size up to your needs)

3.      Injector from torch

4.      Stove ready for this installation



1.      Spin one end of copper hose into spiral about 4 or 5 cm in diameter (better to spin around some cylindrical thing such as spade handle)

2.      Turn the very end of hose facing the tunnel of the spiral

3.      Mount (screw or weld) a torch injector on the end of spiral

4.      Attach the other end of hose to fuel canister

5.      Test the burner in open fire and if it works well install into wood or any other stove


2nd method. Another way is just to have a heavy metal plate with fuel supplying metal hose (could work by drop by drop or chicken feeder principles). Ignition process is the same - to fire a wood beneath the plate but for longer period of time then to fire the oil.



                                        Air intake








                                        Metal hose

 Level of burning oil

 Heavy metal plate

 Step by step instruction



1.      About 1 meter of metal hose (about 15 mm diameter) sold in plumbing stores

2.      Canister for fuel (size up to your needs)

3.      Heavy (for heat accumulation purposes) metal plate

4.      Stove ready for this installation



1.      Mount the canister on the top of stove or just somewhere in high place

2.      Connect one end of hose to fuel canister another keep about 1cm lift from the bottom of metal plate

3.      Test the burner in open fire and if it works well install into wood or any other stove

 I tried both methods in trials but have chosen the second to use for home heating. First method delivers smokeless flame with furnace producing a lot of heat. But oil should be filtered first as nozzles could block the injector. Also its a little bit noisy - sounds like rocket.

I use second method because it's simpler so no way that something could brake up (on the very cold day of course) and the oil doesn't need to be filtered so less deals with dirty oil. Burning oil delivers more smoke (not black anyway after burner heats up), works silently.  Of course there is no modern automation, I'm using a factory made fuel dosator that gives me big or small flame, no electronic ignition capability. But in trials I tried a simple cover to cover the plate with burning oil - works good: cover half of plate surface - and burns just half of oil surface, cover more - get even less fire, uncover - and immediately get all oil burning: - very simple.

I use WVO and glycerin and methyl alcohol mixture I get from biodiesel process, but sure could use any kind of oil. I get lot of heat for home and water heating, and don't pay for it almost anything (just for transporting WVO from restaurants).


Thank you for your attention and good luck

Respectfully Mindaugas Vaisvila <biod2000@mail.centras.lt>

Lubricating Oils from Glycerin

As an aside, There is a process that can turn the left over grease into a 40 weight oil. The following conversation I found very interesting:

Use the glycerol which comes as a by-product.
Warm to 30 deg C
Add a 10% acid - I use phosphoric.
Water must be present
Add slowly until it goes chicken soup then keep stirring
When it goes clear - just like the alkaline esterification - stop
Leave aside for several weeks to settle out
Top layer is lower fraction lubricating oil - consistency about sae 40
Middle layer is mix of oil and salts - phosphates in my case
Bottom layer is diluted glycerol

I was told of it by Martin Steele in Manchester.
That's pretty well all there is to it - the yield is not too high, but it is
well worth doing.  I want to try it with soluble salt produce - the
phosphates are insoluble and they seem to want to stick to the oil, leaving
a mixed layer - I have not had the time to experiment in detail.
While in touch - I have had an approach to esterify waste fish oil.  In
theory this is possible, but I will be flying blind - I have not come across
anything about it on the web.
I have a party coming over from Donegall, Ireland, with a sample next
Tuesday, so anything you may have would be useful by then.
I will keep you posted of results.

Terry de Winne UK <terry@biofuels.fsnet.co.uk>



Methane | Ethanol | Wood (Producer) Gas

Lubricating Oils from Glycerin

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